Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Louhin sdi renessä oli muuten tommonen vika yhen kasauksen jälkeen, ei lähteny bensapumppu pääle niin teki tommosta. Tulipa vain yhtäkkiä mieleen... ;D
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty tuntuu joo ettei bensa pumppu pumppais ku sillo ku starttia painaa ja silloin kone käy kyllä. no nyt on anturi ostettu kuitenki ja tulee se aineki suljettua pois yhtälöstä miksi ei käynnisty
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty anturi laitettu paikoilleen ja uudet tulpat vaihdettu mutta vieläkin ongelmana ettei käynnisty. Startti nappi pohjassa käy ja vastaa kierroksiin mutta kun napin päästää sammuu ku seinää eikä sano mitää ?? olisiko ehdotuksia missä piilee vika ? tuntuu että nyt ollaan jotenki sähköpuolen ongelmassa että mikä katkaisee tai estää käynnistymisen kun startti pohjassa käy kyllä
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Kato se bensapumpun rele, joko se tai valorele oli joku normirele, tiä sitten mitä se tonnisessa on. Kantsii ensin kysellä mikä käy tilalle jos sielä on vikaa, alkuperänen tais olla hitusen hintava.. En tiä mimmonen tässä on tuo käynnistys että oisko sielä starttireleellä tms mahollisesti joku hämminki, joku sdi mies vois varmaan jakaa kokemuksiaan? ???
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty täytynee alkaa kyselee jos joku tietäis tai sitte oikee soittaa ski doon huoltoo jos siel osaisi sanoa jotain. kolme relettä löyty laitteesta ja kaikki oli samanlaisia ja näköisiä ja vaihteli niitä mut ei tuntunu auttavan kuitenkaa mut täytyy silti katsoa missä vika vai voisko olla tappo kytkimes tai jossai.
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty paljonko siinä akussa on mittarin mukaan virtaa, lepotilassa ja kun painat starttia?
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Ootkos lukenut nämä: http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-242316.html "This is a copy of a post over at dootalk.com. Hope something in here can help you out. This post was put together by bluemax, posted by Jeb, and edited by moderators. Inconsistencies of the 2005 – 2007 Mach Z The performance inconsistencies of the 1000 SDI engine are very difficult to eliminate due to the vast amount of components and settings that affect final engine/transmission performance. I have accumulated the following information over the last couple of years from playing with this difficult design. I hope some of this information may help some of the Mach Z owners better understand this complex system and solve some issues. As you can see, it is almost impossible to solve a given issue on the internet due to the complexity of the SDI system. I will break down this information into three areas which are electrical, fuel and mechanical. I will start with the electrical due to it being the largest area. Battery The first item I will discuss is the battery because it is easy to check and has a large affect on overall operation of the engine. Check the battery voltage after running your sled for an extended period or after charging the battery. The battery voltage should be at least 12.5 volts (the shop manual says 12.8 volts). If voltage is less, you need a new battery. Now hit the RER button (have kill switch activated on electric start model) with volt meter still attached. If voltage drops below 12.5 volts, you probably have a bad battery, fuel pump or short in wiring. More than likely it is a bad battery. The next thing to check while you are looking at the battery is to make sure the ground cable and battery connections are tight. Now I am sure a lot of you are thinking if the motor is running it should not make any difference if the battery is bad since the engine generator is supplying electrical power through the rectifier/regulator. I thought that also but a bad battery or connection will definitely affect engine performance. Another area that can affect performance relates to the grounding of additional devices and their power source. Devices such as Boondocker boxes, TFI, EGT gages, temp gages etc. can create issues with the electrical system and sometimes even the ECM if improperly installed. Fuses and Relays Relay No. 1 is activated when you push the RER/Start button or pull the recoil starter. The ECM senses the RER/Start button or the recoil starter turning engine and magneto. The fuel pumps come on for 2 seconds to pressurize fuel system for starting. Relay No.2 is activated by the ECM at about 800 RPM. This relay feeds two fuses (F7 and F8). The fuel pumps are also activated again at this point. Fed by fuse F9. The Relay No. 2 is fed from fuse F4 (5 amp fuse). F7 (20 amp fuse) feeds the E-RAVE actuator, tail lamps, grip and thumb heater, visor outlet and power outlet. F8 (20 amp fuse) feeds the headlights. The third relay called Relay No. 4 is on manual start sleds only. It is turned on when Relay No. 1 is activated by ECM. It basically charges the capacitor for the manual start sleds. EGT (Exhaust Gas Temperature) sensor Part No. 515176132 ($173 US) This EGT sensor is required if you are running the following part No. ECM maps. 420664613 (map delivered with 06 Mach Zs and installed as update on 05s) 420665790 (map know as 06.5 which eliminated cold start issue with 613 map) 420665791 (map delivered with 07 Mach Zs) The sensor is not required if you are running map No. 420664611 which was delivered with the 05 Mach Zs. The EGT sensor is not used to change calibration of the fuel and ignition maps under normal operation but rather as a high temperature limit in the muffler. If the sensor monitors a high enough temperature, the ECM (electronic control module) will put the engine in a safe mode until this problem has been eliminated. The problem that the EGT sensor can cause is the engine can be put in a safe mode of operation when no actual high temperature is present in the muffler. Some of the sensors show higher resistance than actual or connections are poor and the resistance observed by the ECM is higher than actual. This sensor increases in resistance as the temperature increases. This problem can be checked with an ohmmeter. See the attached chart. CTS (coolant temperature sensor) Part No. 515176043 ($55 US) The coolant temperature sensor monitors the engine’s coolant temperature. This sensor has two outputs. One output is for the temperature gage and the other for the ECM for control purposes. The ECM changes the fuel and ignition maps from the standard calibration when the coolant temperature is below 68 degrees f or above 140 degrees f. Between those two coolant temperatures, the fuel and ignition mapping use the standard calibration. The sensor resistance decreases as the coolant temperature increases for both outputs. The two outputs (gage and ECM) are independent from each other so the gage temps can read OK but the ECM may be something totally different. If the resistance reading is too high due to sensor inaccuracy or poor connections, the ECM may keep the engine in the cold safe mode because the ECM thinks the engine never gets to 68 degrees f coolant temperature. There will be no fault recorded if this happens. The higher temperature can also be a problem if the sensor resistance reading is too or there is a short in the sensor wiring to the ECM. The temp observed by the ECM may be above 140 degrees f when the actual temp is in the proper range. This higher temp will trigger a safe mode but may not be high enough to turn on the Engine Overheating Warning Lamp (Red light fourth one from left on speedo). This sensor can be checked by an ohmmeter. If you have a short in the wiring, it will also lower the resistance observed by the ECM and cause a safe mode. Your sensor may be fine but the ECM does not see the correct resistance due to the short in the wiring. A few owners have had the wiring for the CTS wear through with contact from the coolant hoses. ATS (Air Temperature Sensor) Part No. 420966970 ($29) The ATS is used to measure air temperature for the ECM to alter fuel and ignition mapping for temperature changes. The higher the air temperature the lower the resistance value of the sensor. If this sensor or wiring causes the ECM to observe the wrong air temperature by reading the incorrect resistance, the engine will be either too rich or lean depending on the reading. This sensor is located in the air box attached to the throttle bodies. The ATS can be checked with an ohmmeter. These mistakes in temperature readings will not show up in the ECM fault log. These sensors will show up as a fault if there is too high or low of voltage sensed by the ECM. APS (Air Pressure Sensor) Part No. 420274055 ($87) The APS is used to measure barometric pressure for the ECM to alter fuel and ignition mapping for changes in altitude or air pressure. These sensors seem to be fairly dependable and the Mach’s sensor is made by Bosch. Make sure the opening is not plugged or is covered with ice. The sensor is located in the airbox mounted on the PTO side panel. Knock Sensor Part No. 270000484 (05) and 420664035 (06-7) ($45) The Knock Sensor used is a flat response knock sensor which is a self-generating piezoelectric device. The sensor produces voltage in proportion to the engine vibrations being monitored. The ECM has software that will detect the knock frequencies and adjust fuel and timing. The dealer’s BUDS system is required to troubleshoot this device. The 06 and 07 Mach Zs have a different knock sensor than the 05 Mach. There was information passed around that the knock sensor was not used by the 05 Mach program but I was never able to prove or disprove this rumor. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Part No. 270000251 ($171) The TPS is mounted on the MAG side of the Throttle Body shaft. The sensor is a center tap potentiometer. The TPS is the sensor that sends information to the Electronic Control Module (ECM) on the current position of the throttle plates (blades) in the throttle bodies. The TPS is adjusted by going through the The Closed Throttle setting procedure using the dealer’s pc with BUDS software . The Closed Throttle setting procedure is to back off the idle adjustment screw until the throttle plates rest on the throttle body zero position screws (these screws are set at the factory and are covered to prevent tampering). This step may require loosening of the throttle cables. The throttle lever is then snapped two or three times to insure the blades are in the factory preset zero position. The Reset button is pushed in the BUDS software in the Settings section. When this is done, the ECM now uses this point as a reference through the TPS to know the throttle plates are at the zero position. The idle adjustment screw is now adjusted until the BUDS system reads 4.6 to 4.7 degrees (for a 1000 with decompresser plugged). This is just a reference idle position so the sled can be started after the procedure. The throttle cable is then adjusted if loosened previously. The wide open throttle is then verified to be at least at 84%. BUDS is disconnected and the sled warmed up to set the warm idle speed at 2100 to 2200 RPM. The tolerances used by the factory when setting the throttle body zero stops will make a slight difference in the performance of each sled. If the throttle plates at the zero stop position of one sled are slightly more open than another, this sled will run leaner because more air will flow for the same amount of fuel injected. The ECM sends pulses to the fuel controls the fuel injectors to inject fuel at the same rate on all sleds for the same TPS position. The throttle plates position can vary slightly from sled to sled for the same TPS position. The other variables in this setup is that the fuel pressure also varies from sled to sled so the amount of fuel injected will also vary for the same pulse width sent from the ECM to the fuel injectors. The TPS can be checked by the owner by making sure the sensor is securely fastened and not moving in its mount. The sensor can be checked by removing the connector and looking at the three spade terminals in the sensor socket. With an ohmmeter, you can check the TPS. Connect the ohmmeter to the center and either outside spade terminal. The resistance readings should vary from 1000 to 2500 ohms as the throttle blades are turned with the thumb throttle lever. Open the throttle slowly and there should not be any sudden changes or dead spots in resistance readings. Again any wiring or terminal issues from the TPS to the ECM can cause the ECM to send incorrect signals to the fuel injectors and ignition system. E-RAVE actuator Part No. 420889430 ($428) The E-RAVE actuator is the device that opens and closes the RAVE exhaust valves by cable when given a signal from the ECM. The cable was revised on the 05 Mach Z and plastic stops were added on the cable ends to prevent the inner cable sheath from sliding out and limiting cable movement. See the pic of plastic end pieces. The first and easiest place to look for a problem if the E-RAVE valves are not operating is to see if the fuse F7 (20 amp – in upper row on left in fuse box) is blown. This fuse is usually blown by having something plugged into the power or visor outlet that draws too much current. I will post the E-RAVE adjustment procedure which covers most items on the E-RAVE operation and adjustment. Fuel System The fuel system is comprised of four different main components. There is a low pressure electric fuel pump, high pressure electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and four fuel injectors. Low Pressure Fuel Pump Part No. 403901818 (05-6) 513033328 (07) ($97) The low pressure fuel pump is located in front of the fuel tank on the belly pan under the engine. This device is the most likely to be the problem with the fuel delivery system. The pump receives fuel from a supply line connected to the front of the fuel tank at the bottom on the pull cord side. The pump sends fuel to a reservoir located in the main fuel tank where the high pressure pump is located. This low pressure pump is running whenever the engine is in operation. The pump has more capacity than the high pressure pump so there is an overflow opening at the top of the reservoir that allows excess fuel to go back into main fuel tank. The pump receives its power from fuse F9 (10 amp) which is also the fuse feeding power to the high pressure pump. If your sled seems to have fuel problems as the tank drops below half, then this pump is probably bad. To test for this problem fill the tank and if the sled seems to perform properly then the low pressure pump is more than likely bad. If the fuse blows, this pump is probably bad. Changing this pump in its factory location is a major project and will take most of a day to complete. High Pressure Fuel Pump Part No. 513033120 ($368) The high pressure fuel pump is located in a reservoir inside the main fuel tank. This pump delivers fuel at 58 psi to the fuel rail and fuel injectors. There is a fuel filter in the fuel line between the high pressure pump and the fuel rail. This fuel filter is Part No. 513033133 ($59) and includes the hose and special fittings on each end to mate with the existing fuel line. The fuel line from the fuel pump to the fuel rail is always under pressure and requires the dealers BUDS system to release pressure. There is a fuel pressure regulator in the high pressure pump module that regulates the pressure to 58 psi and returns excess fuel to the fuel tank. To check the fuel pressure there is a fuel pressure gage with the proper connections Part No. 529035591 ($156). The fuel pressure determines the amount of fuel injected for a given pulse width at the fuel injectors. If your fuel pressure is low, the engine will run leaner than design and can cause serious damage to the engine. There is some variability in fuel pressure designed into the fuel mapping in the ECM. There should be no spikes or loss of pressure when checking with gage while the engine is changing RPM. A loss of pressure may be due to the reservoir being empty because of the low pressure pump failure. The ECM does not monitor fuel flow or pressure. Fuel Injectors Part No. 420874485 and 480 ($144 each) There are four injectors on the 1000 SDI engine. There is one 485 and one 480 on each cylinder. The fuel injectors are given electrical pulses of a given time period (width) from the ECM for each RPM of the engine. The pulse widths are varied to give the proper fuel/air ratio. The fuel injector is opened for a period of time and the fuel is forced into the engine at a given pressure to achieve the desired amount of fuel for that cycle of the engine. The only test the owner can do on the fuel injectors is the leakage test. To perform this test the fuel rail with injectors has to be removed while stilled hooked to fuel line. Place each injector in a small cup or container. Install DESS and hit the RER button to pressurize system. There should be less than one drip per minute. Perform the test for two minutes. All other tests for the fuel injectors require the dealers BUDS system be attached to the sled. Mechanical There are a few mechanical items that can affect engine performance. The first is the exhaust Y-pipe. There have been cases of the inner layer of the Y-pipe collapsing and limiting max RPM on the engine. The exhaust Y-pipe Part No. 420673150 ($143) requires replacement if the pipe is collapsed. The only way to tell is to remove pipe and inspect visually. The other problem with the Y-pipe is the bolts can come loose and create an exhaust leak. Another area that can affect performance is the reeds. The reeds require cleaning due to the belt dust that accumulates in the reed box area. The SDI engines have no fuel going through the throttle bodies to clean this area. The throttle bodies should also be cleaned to make sure throttle blade will reach idle position. Also check the reeds at this time for cracks or pieces missing. The primary clutch can cause engine consistency issues if the rollers are sticking or worn. Worn bushings on the sliding sheave will also affect performance and also increase wear on rollers and ramps. Sag or loss of spring rate in the spring will also reduce performance of the drive system. This is assuming your clutch setup worked at one time before loss of performance. The secondary clutch can cause performance issues if the sliding sheave bushings are worn. The clutch roller screws sometimes back out and limit CVT (continuously variable transmission) performance. The rollers themselves sometimes wear and also affect performance. Most of the issues with the secondary clutch are caused by excessive heat from drive belt slippage. The sliding sheave has been upgraded each year. The 07 sliding sheave Part No. 417127040 ($258) has the larger roller screws (06 mod that changed screws from M6 to M8) and revised bushings."
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Vaikuttaisi siltä, että korkeapainepumppu lopettaa pyörimisen, kun starttinappi löysätään? Niinhän sen pitäisi toimia, että kun painaa starttinappia kerran, niin korkeapainepumppu pyörii hetken. Sitten pitäisi käynnistää ja pumppu alkaa pyörimään ihan itsekseen.
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Minäkin käynyt ihmettelemässä tätä tapausta, vaikealta tuntuu kun on lähinnä vaan kaasaripelejä ropaillu. Onkohan näissä sdi peleillä kissalan tyylistä turvajärjestelmää mikä tunnistaa jos kaasuvaijeri on hirttänyt kiinni ja katkasee sytytyksen? Tosta Pekan lainauksesta jos oikein ymmärsin niin noin 4bar pitäis olla pa-järjestelmässä painetta? Se pitäis olla ainakin helppo mitata ja taitaa olla se mittari hyvä olla muutenkin tässä laitteessa. Itsellä on/oli vahva veikkaus että ongelmat liittyis reileisiin. Alko kyllä vähän epäilyttämään kun toiminnassa ei tapahtunut mitään muutoksia vaikka releitten paikkoja vaihto ristiin. Sulakkeetkin tuli ihan mittailtua yksitellen että on kunnossa. Onko niitä muualla jemmassa kun sulaketaulussa ja akulta lähtevässä kaapelissa? Jep kerran kun nappi painaa niin hetken aikaa bensapumppu pyöriin ja nostaa paineet. (Tai oletettavasti nostaa eipä tuota polttoaineen painetta ole vielä mitattu). Sen jälkeen kun koittaa nykästä käytiin niin välillä lupailee sen verran että saa pari kolme työtahtia aikaseksi. Minkäs taijan tuo startti/pakkinappi tekee kun sen voimalla tuo kökötys saa käymään? Syöttää herätteen pumpulle vai releelle? Minkähöhän moisia hyppilankoja pitäis vedelle että pumppua sais pakkosyötettyä. Niin mikä ihme tuota rotaksin käynistyslaitetta vaivaa kun ei tunnu pysyvän läjässä? Uudes sisuskalutkin tänään laiteltiin sinne ja silti vaan se "kynsisokka" lähtee omille teilleen. Ei minun silmään edes erityisen kuluneen näkönen se tappi minkä ympärille laitteisto niputetaan. Onko se sitten vaan niin tarkka että pitäis olla kun pakasta vedetty?
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Remonttimies sillo vaivaa jos ei pysy vetolaite läjässä vanha kynsisokka pitää katkasta ku ottaa pois eikä kammeta meisselillä, jos se akseli mälvääntyy yhtään niin lähtee kyllä uus sokka helevetin teille.
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Niimpä niin, kovin on herkkiä laitteita : No oppihan taas vähän jotain uutta ja ei tule tuon Jonin 550:sen kanssa tehtyä sanaa virhettä.
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty juu täytyy katkasta se lukittaja ettei tarvi senki kans alkaa pelleilee samanlailla ku summitin käynnistys vehkeiden kanssa
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty akun olen myös katsonut startattaessa ja ei jännite tipu ja virrat akussa ok
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty Joo, olikos tässä molemmat bensapumput sähköisiä? Lukeman perusteella se koneen allaoleva on kalvopumppu ollut alkujaan mutta päivitetty tehtaan puolesta myös sähköiseksi? - Eli eikös tuon lontoon tarinan mukaan tuo startti/rer nappi anna herätteen releelle joka käynnistää pumput 2 sekunnin ajaksi Sitten kun moottori pyörii 800 rpm niin ECU ohjaa pumput käyntiin (mutta mitä reittiä?, tuota samaa relettä herättäen?). Eli ekaks syöttäisin pumput pyörimään ja kokeilisin käymään ja jos toimii niin sitten vikaa ettimään noista releistä/ moottorin käyntitiedosta jne.
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty elikkä täytyy alkaa hakee pumppuja esille ja koittaa jotenki että pelaako ne
Vs: -05 1000 SDI summit ei käynnisty niin se on totta. eli käymää sitä sähkö helvettiä läpi ja seuraa piuhoja mikä menee mihinkin
